The Island of Lamu, perched on the north east coast of Kenya, is part of an archipelago ringed by mangroves and sand dunes.  Lamu town has a cannonaded waterfront and is a small, hot and sleepy gem of Swahili heritage full of ancient ambiance and character, with a prestigious position as a world heritage site. Nearby, the scenic Shela village attracts overseas investors that recognize the true value of peace and harmony where crime is barely known. This is a place where time stands still. Expect narrow alleys and donkeys.

The waterways and town frontage are populated by small boats and dhows. On land, donkeys are used for transport and there is no motorized traffic. To visit Lamu, Shela and the adjacent Manda, is to forget the worries of life.

20 miles to the north, the remote area of Kiwayu is a turquoise tropical paradise with brilliant coral formations and coloured fish, and simple unspoilt beaches in a lovely cove.

The word Swahili, derives from the Arabic Sawahil, meaning shore. Swahili peoples were those living close to the shoreline. Lamu is considered the spiritual cradle of the Swahili language and civilization and has always been part of the larger Indian Ocean sailing trade that has for hundreds of years brought communities together from many parts of the world that intermingle and marry.  The Arab flavor of Lamu is relatively recent. Lamu is non commercial and appeals to independent travelers. The beaches at Shela and Manda are lovely.

History and culture

Lamu was established on its present site by the fourteenth century but there have been people living on the Island for very much longer. The fresh water supplies beneath Shela made the Island very attractive and there were probably people from Arabia and Southwest Asia living and intermarrying even before the foundation of Islam.

Swahili civilization is the dominant cultural force all along the coast and Lamu is the last remaining pure living town heritage.  In the 60's and 70's, Lamu's unique blend of beaches, gentle Islamic ambiance, atmospheric old town, and local population used to strangers, was a recipe which took over where Marrakesh left off. It acquired a reputation as Kenya's Kathmandu.

Lamu town itself is unendingly fascinating to stroll through, with few monuments but an impressive central fort and hundreds of ancient houses, arresting street scenes and cool corners to sit and rest. The museum is exceptional.

Hotels

Lamu's stone houses, built from coral slag and finished with white lime painted plaster, are unique examples of architecture appropriate to its setting.  In parts of Lamu, houses are built so close you could step across the street from one roof to another. This closeness creates shade and makes for cool interiors.

The space inside Lamu's houses is limited and rooms extend upwards via staircases. There are no modern Lamu hotels. All are built inside the old houses. Just one hotel has a lift. However many have all modern conveniences and are comfortable.

Lamu Festivals

The Maulid Festival, is a century old event that includes dancing and special foods as a celebration of the birth of the Muslim prophet Mohammed. It takes place in May or June each year and brings out very large crowds of pilgrims. Although a religious festival, this is a time of great fun and plenty of lively activity.

Maulidi ceremonies are both spiritual and cultural. The Riyadha Mosque hosts the religious ceremonies, which include overnight prayer vigils, contemplation accompanied by songs and rhythmic chanting, and narrating the life history and achievements of Prophet Muhammad.
At the mosque’s square, men also stage a traditional drum dance called goma, in which they stand in line holding walking sticks. Swaying gently to the beating rhythm of the drums, they stage mock fights, using sandals as shields.

Other cultural events include dhow races that are watched by many spectators, some of them on rooftops and town piers and jetties. Football matches are also organized and are a big attraction for both residents and visitors.
Swimming races are popular. Various madrasahs participate in calligraphy competitions, while women take part in henna design and painting competitions. A cross-country race along the waterfront also adds spice to the festivities.

During this competition, deafening roars of applause emanate from spectators as they cheer their favorite competitors. Photographers and television cameramen click and roll their films and tapes to capture these exciting events.

One of the games that require mental and physical concentration is walking a greased wooden plank barefooted, with the ocean underneath. A flag is pegged at the far end of the lumber and one has to reach and snatch it from its position. Whether one succeeds or fails to detach the cloth, there is one sure destination: a spectacular plunge into the yawning ocean! Reason enough to elicit cheers, congratulations, and laughter.

The most popular event attracting unequalled attention is the donkey race. Lamu’s jockeys spend a considerable amount of time practicing for this event. Riders gallop along the edge of the island town, whipping and deftly controlling their beasts of burden. They have to go through preliminary rounds before the epic final that one cannot afford to miss!

A local sheikh, Abdur-Rahman Badawy, says that the various events that accompany the Maulidi festivities play a major role in preserving Swahili culture. “These activities provide us with an opportunity to bring our culture to the fore.”

In addition, Lamu holds a 3 day Cultural Festival around the third week of November.  Events include boat and donkey and dhow races and traditional dances. The festival brings out all the residents and the cannonaded waterfront is thronged with ever moving crowds in an exciting atmosphere.

Getting There

The best way to get to Lamu, Shela  and Kiwayu is to fly from Nairobi, Malindi or Mombasa. If you fly or go by road, you have to take a boat to get onto the Island.